Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Relatively standard fare here. Forge World reinforced armor, subtle metallic gunmetal highlighting (still very much in-progress), some additional plasticard plating, and lovingly customized lascannons. Those cannons are the penultimate example of how I approach the craft, for better or for worse. Like those lascannons, most of my custom work is extremely subtle... even unnoticeable to the casual observer.
Many hours were spent crafting those barrels to my demanding satisfaction, and had I not pointed it out I doubt few would have spotted the difference. The result is perfect in my estimation, but exactly why I will never be able to churn out models with any rapidity.
The additional plating on the fore (where the Rhino windows would be) has some rivet detail. That's significant as I don't generally do rivets, for a number of reasons. It's easy to overdo, it can be difficult to stay true to scale and not have rivets the size of a (scale) human's fist, and it's crazy time-consuming. However there are some instances where I believe rivet detail is necessary, and this is one as the plate would just appear to bare without them. Helps it mesh with the rest of the model. Some modelers carefully glue punched plasticard, some utilize the bead method, my method is straightforward and relatively simple ...
The materials consist of plasticard, pin vice, and generic plastic model contour putty (Testor's, in this instance). Mark out the desired locations for the 'rivets' beforehand, and then score the 'dots' with a X-acto knife to give the pin vice a guide hole. A couple of twists with the tip of the blade is more than sufficient. Place the plasticard face down on a folded paper towel and go to work with the pin vice until you've punched through. A couple extra twists to clean the hole, some minor knife work to remove the 'flash' created around the hole edges, and some fine grit sanding around the hole to smooth the whole thing out.
Now you have a choice. You can leave as-is, and it makes perfectly acceptable "recessed" rivets (check out the additional plates on the Predator pic above, just above/behind the headlights for reference). Or you can take it one step further to acquire the "bulge". This part is ridiculously simple.
Smear a small amount of the contour putty on the backside of the plate, over the hole. Tiny amount of pressure and the putty squeezes though, leaving a "bubble" on the visible side. When creating multiple rivets, be cautious not to fat finger and smear your previous work, as the putty takes several hours to solidify. And that's all she wrote. Let dry, carefully sand off the backside and touch up the visible side as you feel appropriate. Paint to taste. The center front plate in the picture above is a completed example.
This has been one of my rare tutorials, hope all three of you who read this blog find it of use. Admittedly it's not an incredibly complicated subject, but it does save me a huge amount of time with good results.
And time is something we all wish we had in abundance, but never do.
Monday, January 18, 2010
The below is a Tamiya 1:48 Kfz.222 scout car, which was specifically built to pull double duty as either a third autocannon Sentinel or a Salamander Scout. In the former role, the Heavy Bolter is of course non-functional.
Last, but not least... the monstrosity below was built before the new plastic kits were available. The original idea was a fully enclosed, NBC (Nuke/Bio/Chem) shielded cockpit with extra reconaissance sensor apparatus... but I was not keen on the looks or weight of the Steel Legion white metal beast. Spent a massive amount of time with plasticard, putty, and fine grit sand paper to close 'er in. Two months later the new kits hit the shelves. C'est la vie. Though it did give me the opportunity to steal the missile turret from the new kit release for my Frankenstein.
Leave the cash on the nightstand.
The obvious rules option would be to mirror the Destroyer Tank Hunter's main weapon (Laser Destroyer: 72" S10 AP 2, counts as Ordinance for armor penetration - no blast template. Use BS to hit), but I am rather partial to the Valdor's main weapon, though admittedly the PDF source I have is clearly stated as experimental:
Neutron Laser Projector: 60" S10 AP2 Ordinance, 3" Blast, Primary Weapon, Shock Pulse (non-superheavy hit = automatic Crew Stunned result)
Edit: a reader pointed out that the experimental rules have been modified in their final form (ala Siege of Vraks 3). The actual stats are as follows:
Neutron Laser Projector: 72" S10 AP1 Ord 1, primary weapon, shock pulse (non-superheavy hit = automatic Crew Stunned result), feedback (failed penetration roll = roll a D6, a 1 = automatic glancing hit on Valdor)
Still undecided and mulling it over. Yes... I know that's a stubber. No matter what I did, the Storm Bolter never looked quite right.
Barrel length envy...
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
No build update today (hey… gimme’ a break! I just got up-and-running again!), but posted for your perusal under “things I want simply because they’re astonishingly cool… even though I can’t use them with any army I currently possess”, I am in the throes of a quandary.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Hindsight being 20-20, I now see spinning up a brand new hobby blog directly before the hell of the holiday season was not the most shrewd of ideas. Simply not enough hours in the day… what with all of the “Christmas Cheer” and “Seasonal Joy”, yadda yadda blah. Gods I’m glad that’s over and done. Add professional responsibilities to that mix and the sad result is that I haven’t picked up a paint brush in over a month. A disheartening truth I intend to set right.